(Very) slow start to the day today: slept in until what turned out to be about 9AM: it was still dark as the inside of a cow. Strange: sunrise should have happened around 7:30. Is it that dark from clouds? No – it transpires that the hotel has a system of storm shutters which serve as blackout blinds, and we had accidentally activated them last night while exploring all of the switches and knobs. No problem: we needed the rest.

We breakfasted on coffee and croissants from the free section of the rooftop bar and it’s automatic coffee machine. Not the greatest coffee but it did the job.

It snowed at about 10:30. Took a couple of photos that were nothing special to look at afterwards. The people scurrying along on the footpath with hoods up and some with umbrellas and the falling snow was very pretty though.

We finally made it out on our mission of discovery just after midday, and made straight for a good cafe in the next block (Father Carpenter), to have some real coffee. And some breakfast, as it turned out: Cath had the poached eggs on toast, which appeared to be perfectly cooked, and from happy chickens, while I had the french toast with maple syrup, berries and vegan cream (whatever that is). The coffee was so good that I had a second flat white, and the meals were delicious.

We spent the next two hours wandering the historical streets and alleys of the area: Rosenhöfe, Dead Chicken Alley, Hackesche Höfe, Sophienkirche, Große Hamburger Straße. By that time we were well in need of a sit-down, and there was a cafe nearby, so we gave it a shot. Deeming ourselves sufficiently caffeinated we ordered a couple of the health drinks and a curry-wurst with potatoes. Perhaps they had to roast the potatoes from scratch: it took probably the best part of an hour to serve, but was worth the wait both for the food, for the people-watching, and for the interesting history of the place, according to the menus. It had been built at the end of the 19th century, when Germany was still a kingdom, to support the owner’s unmarried sister-in-law. The cafe had existed as such continuously for about 120 years.

Anyway, after that extended break we set off again, but the rain was heavier and Cath’s knee was bothering her, so we headed back to the hotel to look at the day’s photos and have a rest before dinner.

Just back from dinner now, at a place called Lokal, which specializes in local produce and consequently has an ever-changing menu. It was excellent. The beef tartar that I had for starters might have been the best ever, and the fish main course (gurnard) was also excellent. Cath had an entre of wild boar fillet with carrots, beets and artichoke and then main course of lamb.


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